Sayling Away

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Y = York

York is an historic town near the southern tip of the state. It includes the villages of York Village, York Beach, and Cape Neddick. Its year round population is 12,529, but this number swells in the summer because of York’s reputation as a resort. Several famous American authors have been known to spend their summer months in York, including Mark Twain. York’s history is nothing if not confusing. Hopefully I can clear it up. It was first settled in 1624 and was originally called Agamenticus, the Abenaki term for the York River. British settlers changed the name to Bristol in 1638, after Bristol, England, from which they had come. But even this name didn’t stick. Sir Fernando Gorges, as a member of the Plymouth Council for New England, became the Lord Proprietor of Maine. He envisioned Bristol as the capital of his province and named it Gorgeana. But wait, the name changing not over yet! After Gorges’ death, the Massachusetts Bay Colony (now the Boston area) claimed Gorgeana, and in 1652, York, Massachusetts (there was no intervening state of New Hampshire between Massachusetts and Maine at that time) was incorporated from a portion of Gorgeana. The incorporated town was then named York, for York, England. Imagine the problems a postman would have had trying to deliver mail during this time! York was burned to the ground in January of 1692, during King William’s War, the first of six colonial wars fought between New France and New England along with their respective Native allies. One hundred English settlers were killed, and another 80 taken hostage. There’s a link to my home town of Plymouth here, because after the hostages were forced to walk to the French colony of Canada, they were ransomed by Captain John Alden, Jr., son of John Alden and Priscilla Mullins of the Plymouth Colony. The final Indian attack on York occurred at Cape Neddick during Dummer’s War 1723, a series of battles between New England and the Wabanaki Confederacy (see W= Wabanaki), allies of New France. Hostilities finally ceased when France ceded all of its remaining mainland territories in North America to England with the 1763 Treaty of Paris. York prospered during the colonial era, as a shipping center, the provincial capital and the site of the Royal Jail. Wharves and warehouses contained sugar and molasses from the West Indies which were received in exchange for agricultural products and lumber. One of the York merchants was John Hancock. Following the American Revolution, however, the Embargo Act of 1807 crippled trade and York would not be prosperous again until after the Civil War when its colonial charm, sea and sand began to attract tourists. Old York, the historic town center, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973 and contains six preserved historic buildings, including the Gaol (Jail), the Old Schoolhouse, the 1834 Remick Barn, and Jefferd’s Tavern, a true colonial tavern dating back to 1750.   Like Bar Harbor and Newport, Rhode Island, York became a fashionable summer resort in the so-called Gilded Age (the late 19th century, from the 1870s to about 1900; term coined by writer Mark Twain to mean a time of serious social problems masked by a veneer of gold). It retains many distinctive examples of the architecture of that time, particularly in the Shingle Style. Rhe Brewster’s interest in architecture would have her in seventh heaven in York! 0 0

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X = Fort Western!

I simply could not find anything to see in Maine that begins with an X, other than Xavier Loop, a street in Augusta. So because I am passionate about history, I’ve taken the liberty of substituting Fort Webster. I had two other Ws: the Winslow Homer home and Wadsworth Longfellow House, but Fort Western had a rocking history and is linked to the Plymouth Pilgrims. In 1625, the Plimoth Colony Pilgrims sailed up the Kennebec River in a single masted, open hulled vessel called a shallop, named for Elizabeth Tilley. Elizabeth was one of the original passengers on the Mayflower and it was my privilege to portray her during one of the Pilgrim’s Progresses in Plymouth when I was a child. The Pilgrims wanted to establish a trading relationship with Native Americans in the area, since they were already operating a year-round trading post south of where Fort Western is now found. Fort Western was built in 1754 built by the Kennebec Proprietors, a Boston-based company seeking to settle the lands along the Kennebec River that had been granted to the Pilgrims more than a century earlier. It is America’s oldest surviving wooden fort – a reminder of a clash of cultures that dominated New England life 250 years ago.  This company, along with the Province of Massachusetts, wished to expand their interest in the area as part of the British and colonial effort to take political control of North American and sever the ties between the local Abenaki Indians and the French in Canada. The Fort was named for Thomas Western of Sussex, England, a friend of William Shirley, the longest-serving governor of the Province of Massachusetts (1741–1749 and 1753–1756). Crony capitalism in the 1700s. Fort Western served as a fortified storehouse to support Fort Halifax, 17 miles to the north. Supplies were shipped from Boston, unloaded there and then taken by a flat-bottomed boat upriver to Fort Halifax. Captain James Howard was the first permanent resident; he shipped alewives (a plentiful fish) down the Kennebec and his family operated a store within the fort. Since the fort was a secure location, it attracted trappers and other settlers. Benedict Arnold stayed at the Fort with his Quebec Expedition in September of 1775. Some of Arnold’s officers, including Daniel Morgan, Aaron Burr, and Henry Dearborn, lodged in the Fort’s main house. The Fort’s military role ended after that, although the Fort itself survived because of the trading post/store. Fort Western was never attacked directly. Protected by its four-pound cannon, the garrison spent most of its time doing routine duty, including boat repair, cooking, baking, brewing, and getting wood, in addition to helping re-supply Fort Halifax. The main building of the fort was eventually sold by the Howard family, and was converted into a tenement house. It was repurchased in Howard family descendants in 1919, and restored the following year. They oversaw the construction of two new blockhouses and a stockade, which was again rebuilt in 1960. The Fort’s main building is a little-altered example of an 18th-century trading post. The fort was declared a National Historical Landmark in 1973, and it and the store are maintained as a museum and are open to the public during the summer months. Don’t forget to guess, after “Z,” which two sites I will visit this summer when I am in Maine.  A copy of Death in a Dacron Sail is the prize for the right guess! 0 0

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W = Wabanaki

Wabanaki is roughly translated at “People of the First Light” and the Wabanaki Confederacy is a Native American confederation of five nations: the Mi’kmaq, Maliseet, Passamaquoddy, Abenaki and Penobscot. The Wabanaki peoples are located in Maine, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick, and parts of New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and Quebec. (Note: I spell Mi’kmaq as Micmac, both here and in the Rhe Brewster Mystery series. It’s because I found Mi’kmaq too difficult to type in a hurry!) This confederacy united five of the Algonquian language-speaking Peoples and beginning in 1688, members of the Wabanaki Confederacy participated in six major wars on the side of the French. before the British defeated the French in North America. During this period, their population was radically decimated by the decades of warfare, famines and devastating epidemics. The Confederacy also played a key role in the American Revolution, as a result of the Treaty of Watertown signed in 1776. This treaty established a military alliance between the United States and the Micmac and Passamaquoddy nations, and warriors of both nations fought in the Revolution. Wabanaki soldiers from Canada are still permitted, due to this treaty, to join the US military, and have done so during the Afghanistan and Iraq Wars. The Wabanaki Confederacy was forcibly disbanded in 1862, but in 1993 the confederacy meetings were revived and the first reconstituted confederacy conference was hosted by the Penobscots; the sacred Council fire was lit again, and embers from the fire have been kept burning continually since then. The Micmac (Mi’kmaq, L’nu, Mikmaw), who play a role in the second and third of the Rhe Brewster Mysteries, today live in Newfoundland and the northeastern region of Maine. The nation has a population of about 40,000, of whom nearly 11,000 speak their language. The name “Micmac” was first recorded in a memoir by Charles de La Chesnaye (1632 -1702), a French businessman active in Canada Before the English and French came to their part of North American, the Mi’kmaq lived a life of seasonal movement between dispersed interior winter camps and larger coastal communities during the summer. They harvested fish during spawning runs of smelt and herring in the spring, collected waterfowl eggs, and hunted geese. The coast offered abundant cod and shellfish, and ocean breeze brought relief from the biting black flies and mosquitoes (I can attest they are as large as birds!). In September they harvested American eels, then returned to their winter camps to hunt moose and caribou. Moose were the most important animal hunted by the Micmac and they used every part of the body: meat for food, skin for clothing, tendons and sinew for cordage, bones for carving and tools. The weapon they used most for hunting was the bow and arrow. In the 16th century, early European fishing camps for catching and dry-curing cod for shipment traded with Micmac fisherman and expanded the trade to include into furs. This led to fewer coastal camps of Micmacs, instead gathering them into centers of trade. I had a wonderful lunch with John Denis, a Micmac elder, in Caribou, Maine, last February. During the course of our conversation, I asked him a great deal about what had happened to the Micmac during the settlement of America by Europeans. When I mentioned I had read quite a bit about the effects of this settlement on Native Americans, he said, “Then you do not know the real truth of it because everything you read is written by white people.” 0 0

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Viles Arboretum

During the 1890s, as part of a belief in “moral treatment” of psychiatric patients, patients were thought to derive to benefit from being outdoors and involved in farming activities. From 1835 to 1905, the State Hospital for the Insane (now the Augusta Mental Health Institute) purchased and consolidated several neighboring farms. For more than a century, the hospital farm provided crops and livestock as well as occupational therapy and exercise for hospital patients. The history of the old State Hospital Farm can be seen throughout the 224 acres which now make up the Viles Arboretum, currently composed of 224 acres of land with a long history of farming use. Formerly known as the Pine Tree State Arboretum, the botanical garden boasts of 224 acres of plants belonging to more than 300 different species of plants and trees. There are nature trails at the site, which can be used for pleasure strolls and biking and which lead to woodlands, forests, and ponds, as well as farmland which once served as a State Hospital farm. A visitor can still see the valve station used for controlling water flow from the earthern cistern (now the Pavillion) to the hospital. The granite quarry just beyond the Rock Garden is one of the areas where granite was cut from a quarry deposit and used for various projects including foundations of the hospital. There are also the remains of the animal stalls along the trail to the bridge at Viles Pond. The Maine Forest Service began development of the Arboretum in 1981.  During that year, 120 trees were planted and construction of fences, bridges, trails, and a boardwalk began.  A board of directors to manage the 224-acre preserve, then called the Pine Tree State Arboretum, was formed in 1981, and in 1992, a 99- year lease was signed with the Department of Conservation, administered by the Bureau of Parks and Lands. The Arboretum was renamed the Viles Arboretum in 1992 to honor William Payson Viles and his wife, who were instrumental in establishing the Arboretum. An education wing was built in 2003. The Arboretum is continuously adding to its collection of trees and plants, its educational activities, programs, events and its trail system. 0 0

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U = University of Maine

I had a hard time finding a U until I remembered that faculty at the University of Maine had a small role in the second of the Rhe Brewster mysteries and the school is near the Orono Bog, which I toured for information for that second book. The University of Maine is the only Land Grant University in the U.S.located on an island – Marsh Island, between the Penobscot and Stillwater Rivers. It is the center of the small town of Orono, which has a population of around 8500 people. The University has about 11,000 students and occupies 660 acres. It was founded in 1862 as a function of the first Morrill Act, signed by President Lincoln, that allowed for the creation of land grant colleges. The University was originally named the Maine College of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts and opened its doors on September 21, 1868, changing its name to the University of Maine in 1897. The original campus plan was designed by renowned landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmstead, who also designed Central Park in New York City and the White House grounds in Washington, D.C. Central to campus is the University of Maine Mall, an open grassy area bordered by Fogler Library, Memorial Gym, one residence and five academic halls. The University of Maine’s athletic teams are nicknamed the Black Bears, and sport blue and white uniforms. The University of Maine has another link to Lincoln, which we discovered when we toured the campus. Hannibal Hamlin (1809 –1891) was the 15th U.S. Vice President serving under Lincoln during the Civil War. Prior to his election in 1860, Hamlin served in the Senate, the House and and, briefly, as the Governor of Maine. Hamlin did not actually meet Lincoln until after the election. While serving as Vice President, Hamlin had little authority in the Lincoln Administration, although he was a strong proponent of the Emancipation Proclamation. Hamlin and Lincoln were not close personally, but had a good working relationship. In June 1864, Lincoln was renominated, but War Democrat Andrew Johnson of Tennessee was named to replace Hamlin as Lincoln’s running mate because Lincoln was seeking to broaden his base of support. Though Hamlin went along quietly with the decision, he was hurt by the chain of events, having left his Senate seat to take a position he didn’t want, only to be ultimately let go. Nonetheless, he helped with Lincoln’s campaign Hamlin was a member of the Company A of the Maine Coast Guard, a militia unit, and when the was called up in the summer of 1864, Hamlin opted to serve, even while he was Vice President, arguing that he could set an example by doing the duty expected of any citizen. 0 0

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T = Tap a Maple Tree

I’m pretty sure you’re all drawn to Vermont Maple Syrup, but did you know that Maine also produces excellent stuff? Pure Maine maple syrup has a hint of the great north woods in it and has been enhancing the flavors of fine, downeast food since long before the colonists arrived. Today, hundreds of years later, the quality is excellent, the degree of sweetness is fixed by law, and the uniquely delicious taste still varies as it always has. Sometimes the syrup is dark and rich, sometimes pale gold and delicate. It all depends on the soil and terrain, the wind and the weather, just like wine. There are three species of maple trees used to produce maple syrup: the sugar maple, the black maple and the red maple, because of the high sugar content (roughly two to five percent) in their sap. Maples are usually tapped when they reach 30 to 40 years of age. Each tree can support between one and three taps, depending on its trunk diameter, and on average will produce 9.2 to 13.2 gallons of sap per season; this is roughly 7% of its total sap. Seasons last for four to eight weeks, depending on the weather, and sap is not tapped at night because the temperature drop inhibits sap flow. Maples can continue to be tapped for sap until the trees are over 100 years old. The sugar in sap is stored as starch throughout the year. During the spring, the warm days and cold nights help change these starches to sugars and the flow of sweet sap begins. Sap can only be harvested while it’s moving through the tree trunk. Because of the long, cold winter, it was a late start for most sugarhouses in southern Maine this year, but as of Wednesday, March 4th, sap was running run for the first time. Central and Northern Maine had to wait because their seasons run a couple of weeks to almost a month behind the sugarhouses in the southern most part of the state. A sugarhouse, or sugar shack, is where the sap is boiled and is louvered at the top to vent the steam from the boiling sap. Native Americans of Northeast American Continent developed the art of making sugar and syrup from the sap of the maple tree. For them it was the all-purpose seasoning, much as salt. It was also one of their staple foods, so valuable and portable it was often used as money. European settlers quickly learned about maple syrup, and had something very important to trade for the knowledge of making syrup — iron kettles. The Indians boiled the syrup by dropping red-hot stones into thick wooden containers full of sap. Production methods have been streamlined since colonial days, yet remain basically unchanged.   A recipe for you:            Maple-Mustard Barbecue Sauce (from the Maine Maple Producers Association) 2 tablespoons Dijon-style prepared mustard or other strong mustard 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, crushed through a press 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, crushed 1/3 cup Maine maple syrup 1/3 cup peanut oil or other bland oil 0 0

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Book Review: Concealment by Rose Edmunds

Concealment is quite a twisted mystery and unique in that it takes place in the arena of big business and finance. Amy, an executive in the company overseeing the financial aspects of a merger of a construction company with another, larger company, has risen through the ranks by dint of ambition and hard work. Another less determined person might not have achieved her position, given the fact she is the daughter of a pathological hoarder who made Amy’s childhood miserable and who is currently bringing misery to her life again. She survives by keeping her past a secret, a delicate balancing act. The story begins with the discovery by the tax division of Amy’s company of some irregularities in the financials of the smaller of the two companies, irregularities which are later found not to be the problem initially thought. The one problem I had with this book is that the financial and business information was over my head, and I did not understand exactly what was going on; nevertheless, I managed to get a general idea. Then Amy’s young colleague, a thorough investigator of the tax conundrum, is murdered, and Amy’s new boss Ed displays obnoxious behavior that she interprets as a desire to trash her career and boot her from the company. As the mystery of her colleague’s death unwinds under Amy’s reluctant but intelligent investigation, the pressure on her exerted by the smarmy Ed inexorably increases. He undermines her authority, gets friends to spy on her, and discredits her at every turn. Amy becomes convinced he is the killer and increasingly uses alcohol to calm her distress. Her tight control of herself and her life starts to crack, and as her paranoia increases, even the reader becomes worried that Amy is mentally unbalanced. Is there no one she can trust? Amy gradually discovers that various parties to the merger are pursuing illegal agendas, which leads to a suicide and attempts on her life. To top it off, a nosy and imperious neighbor manipulates her mother to apply even further pressure on Amy’s already precarious mental balance. The reader is kept guessing to the very end and I found myself reading as quickly as possible to discover who was at the bottom of everything. Most satisfying is how Amy exacts her revenge. A good read for just about everyone. About the author: Rose Edmunds lives in Brighton with her husband David. She has a degree in mathematics at the University of Sussex and a PhD from Cardiff University and worked for more than 20 years in several well-known accountancy firms, while steadfastly maintaining her literary aspirations. Iin 2007 she finally quit her day job now writes financial thrillers with a strong ethical theme. Her writing draws heavily on her considerable insight into the business world and in particular the uncomfortable conflict between individual and corporate objectives. Rose is also a trustee of Brightside, a charity helping young people to access career and education opportunities they might not have believed were available to them. Concealment can be found on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Concealment-Rose-Edmunds/dp/1508630690/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1428778123&sr=1-1&keywords=Concealment Rose Edmunds can be found On Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RoseEdmundsAuthor On Goodreads: www.goodreads.com/author/show/5759693.Rose_Edmunds Her homepage: www.roseedmunds.co.uk And on twitter: @RoseEdmunds 0 0

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S = Saint Croix Island International Historic Site

Although Saint Croix Island has no public access, it can be well seen from both the U.S. and Canadian mainlands. If you can’t visit it, why would I include this in my A-Z blog? To answer myself, because the proposed settlement for the island predates my hometown of Plymouth by sixteen years! This uninhabited island sits near the mouth of the Saint Croix River,which forms part of the U.S.-Canadian border and separates Maine from New Brunswick. It is only 6.5 acres – 200 yards long by 100 yards wide, and was called Muttoneguis by the Passamaquoddy Nation, who had used or lived on the island for numerous centuries before European discovery. Saint Croix Island is the site of the first French attempt to colonize the territory they called l’Acadie; members of a French expedition led by Pierre Dugua settled on the island in 1604. Seventy-nine members of the expedition, including Samuel Champlain, passed the severe winter of 1604-1605 on the island, iced in by freezing temperatures and cut off from fresh water and game. Thirty-five settlers died, apparently of scurvy, and were buried in a small cemetery on the island. In spring of 1605 the Passamaquoddy, previously befriended by the French, returned to the shores of Saint Croix Island and traded game for bread. The health of the remaining settlers improved, to the point where the group could move on by summer. Dugua made the decision to move the colony and founded the settlement of Port Royal, in today’s Nova Scotia. The Port Royal location was the first permanent European settlement in New France. In 1608, Samuel de Champlain and some of the settlers moved from Port-Royal to a settlement on the Saint Lawrence River that later became known at Quebec. St. Croix Island became known as Bone Island in the 18th century after many of the graves were exposed by erosion. Twenty three sets of remains were removed in 1969 and subsequently reburied in 2003. The island was designated Saint Croix Island National Monument by the United States Congress in 1949. It was given its current designation by Congress as an International Historic Site on September 25, 1984, a unique designation in the national park systems of the United States and Canada       0 0

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R = Route 1 in Maine

Many times in my books, Rhe Brewster takes Route 1 to get to various places: Boston, Portland, Presque Isle. So it’s a natural for me to tell you about this scenic route. U.S. Route 1 starts in Key West, Florida, making it the longest north-south road in the United States, and it is a major north–south state highway which serves the eastern part of Maine . It parallels the Atlantic from New Hampshire to Portland, Belfast to Calais, and then to the St. Croix River, Houlton and Fort Kent. The portion along the ocean, known as the coastal route, provides scenic views of the rugged Maine coast and lighthouses. U.S. Route 1 has always been the premier tourist destination in the State of Maine. From Kittery, Route 1 follows the beautiful southern coastline all the way to Eastport, and then to Calais and then it turns and heads North through Danforth and an awesome million dollar view of East Grand Lake and heads through Presque Isle and on to the St. John Valley. All along the way, there are state parks, a national park, antique shops, historic forts and lighthouses, gift shops, and seafood restaurants, and so much more that I cannot list them all here. Initially, way back when, US 1 south of Calais was part of the Atlantic Highway and became Route 1 when the New England road marking system was established in 1922. The northward continuation from Calais was later designated as part of Route 24; in 1925 Maine transferred to US 1 to a better-quality inland route between Bangor and Houlton. This changed in 1926, when the inland shortcut — now generally followed by Interstate 95, became part of US 2. US 1 was then assigned to the Bangor Bypass and became the coastal route. It must have been a confusing time to be driving in Maine! Here’s just the tip of the iceberg of what you can see on US 1: Saco – has the largest amusement and water park in Maine. Kenneybunkport – Kennebunkport is best known for its popular summer residents… President and First Lady George and Barbara Bush. Both Kennebunk and Kennebunkport offer a wealth of history, arts, hospitality and five long and beautiful sandy beaches. Freeport – home of L.L. Bean and 120 upscale factory outlets. Bar Harbor – gateway to Acadia National Park (see A in this series) Boothbay Harbor – where we spend our vacations. Spectacular coast, kyacking, paddle boarding, sailing, 0 0

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Q = Quoddy Head State Park

Quoddy Head State Park encompasses 541 acres located four miles off State Route 189 in Lubec. The land was purchased by the state in 1962 and is found on the easternmost point of land in the continental United States. In the park is the candy-striped West Quoddy Head Light, five miles of hiking trails, extensive forests, two bogs, and diverse habitat for rare plants. The bogs relate to something that happens to Rhe in Death in a Dacron Sail, and she and her husband might have winter-camped in the park. Thomas Jefferson commissioned the West Quoddy Head Light which was built in 1808. The present tower and house date to 1858 and was manned by resident light house keepers until 1988, when the light became automated and the U.S. Coast Guard took over the running and maintenance. This is the easternmost lighthouse in the United States. The area around West Quoddy Head Light is surrounded by dangerous cliffs, ledges and rocks and shipwrecks were frequent in this frequently foggy area, which is busy with ships. Initially the light and a fog cannon warned mariners away, and later the light house was among the first to use a fog bell and a steam-powered foghorn. This greatly reduced the shipwrecks. From the lighthouse, visitors can look out over Quoddy Channel (which divides the U.S. and Canada) to the towering red cliffs of Grand Manan Island in New Brunswick. The tower itself is closed, but the lighthouse grounds, a visitor center, and museum run by the West Quoddy Head Light Keepers Association are open to the public. For a few weeks around the equinoxes, West Quoddy Head is the first location in the United States to see the sunrise. The Park also provides some of Maine’s best wildlife-watching in the summer: humpback, minke and finback whales offshore, along with rafts of eider, scoter and old squaw ducks. Kittiwakes, gannets, black-bellied plovers, ruddy turnstones and purple sandpipers all roost at various times on Sail Rock. During spring and fall migration periods, hundreds of shorebirds congregate near the Park’s western boundary and birding opportunities continue into winter. There are two bogs. One is an easy, one-mile round-trip walk, an unusual coastal plateau bog with sub-arctic and arctic plants rarely seen south of Canada. Shrubs predominate, particularly black crowberry, baked appleberry and Labrador tea, along with carnivorous plants such as pitcher plants and sundew. A second bog at the property’s western boundary, Carrying Place Cove Bog, is a National Natural Landmark. 0 0

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